OK everyone, as promised here is the follow up article.
Taking a cue from the first article, we have decided there are basically 3 types of crash. The highside, lowside and impact. The best form of surviving these crashes is to try and avoid them in the first place. These are a few ideas I have but you must consider them to be only notes and not a comprehensive list.
As the main cause of both lowsides and highsides is a lack of traction, then the avoidance of it is fairly straightforward. You need to learn to read the road surface and to know the adhesion limits of your bike. Lets look at a few examples.
A well used road surface suddenly changes into gravel. This is an extreme example but is very common in many parts of the US. I have never seen warning signs that this is about to happen either. If you are on an unknown country road then be aware that this could easily happen. So what do you do if you find yourself riding on gravel? Keep the bike as upright as possible, close the throttle and try and avoid using the front brake. RELAX Keep the bars loosely held as the bike slows down and don’t try and fight with the steering. The bike will probably shimmy and weave a fair bit; let it! Keep calm and let the bike slow down at its own pace to a point where you feel back in control. You may need to brake too so try and only use the rear brake. If the rear wheel locks just release a bit of brake pressure. It is no big deal if the rear wheel locks when the bike is upright, but you will slow much faster if the wheel is braked but not locked. Thats why ABS equipped cars stop faster than non-ABS ones.
A well used road surface suddenly changes into brand new asphalt. No big deal in the dry but when wet it is a different story. Asphalt is a by-product of oil and, when wet and new, can release a lot of unamalgamated liquid. The surface then becomes like an ice rink and will require great care. Assuming you have entered it at speed then allow your speed to bleed off similar to the above. You will not be shimmying all over the road but the danger is still there. Try not to use the front brake at all, but if you have to then use sensitivity and be ready to release if you lock up. Front wheel lockups are much scarier than rear wheel lockups, and disaster is much closer, so be vigilant.
Other hazards. Many things may cause you to briefly lose traction. Typical street hazards are manhole covers, railway lines, spilled fluids and potholes. The approach for these is basically the same; avoid them if at all possible (countersteering is a very useful technique here). These hazards also multiply in severity when it is wet. If you find you cannot avoid them, keep the bike upright and try not to grip the bars too tightly as any reaction from you will be transmitted directly to the front wheel. In the vast majority of cases you will simply ride over the obstacle with no ill effects. If you end up riding through a deep pothole be aware that front wheel or tyre damage may occur (often invisible).
Rain will also result in a general lowering of the amount of grip available. If it hasn’t rained for some time then all kinds of spilled fluids will leech to the surface resulting in even slicker conditions. Be especially vigilant at places where vehicles stop eg traffic signals, train crossings, STOP signs etc. In rain, SLOW DOWN
Painted road markings offer less grip than asphalt, especially when wet. Try to avoid riding over them if leaned over.
In autumn there is a big increase in the danger level caused by all the falling leaves. Those things do not make for a grippy surface, believe me. It gets even worse as they get wet and start to decompose. The result is a slimey gunge that is more slippery than a greased eel. Be especially cautious when riding through avenues of trees.
Talking of avenues of trees, be wary of riding through them after rain. The open road may have long since dried, but there will still be damp patches under the shade of these trees.
In winter you must be super alert for black ice. For those not familiar with the term, it is when there is ice on the road but it is indistinguishable from the normal road surface.
There are many other hazards associated with poor road surfaces but let’s move on to hitting things.
Your best friends when faced with potentially painful bike/car interfacing are Observation, Anticipation and Reaction. To be even more succinct, assume the buggers are out to kill you and ride accordingly.
Observe what other road users are doing. Is there a car up your tailpipe? Is there anybody right next to you in your blind spot? What is the car in front doing? What are the ten cars in front of him doing? Is the car way up ahead braking or signalling? If so then prepare to slow down as the concertina effect happens. Often traffic in front will slow for no apparent reason so you must stay sharp and KEEP YOUR DISTANCE. There really is no excuse for running into the back of somebody as any insurance company can confirm.
This country is very bad for people pulling out from side streets with very little warning. If you see people waiting to pull out then keep a couple of fingers covering the front brake, move as far to the side of your lane away from them as possible and be prepared to countersteer around them. Look at their eyes; if they make eye contact you can be reasonably sure they have seen you. If not you may well be in trouble. The eye contact method is extremely effective and is a terrific way of helping to develop the sixth sense most bikers need to survive.
At traffic signals be wary of the red light jumpers. Again, it is worse here than just about anywhere I have ever been. Do not assume a green light means that all danger has passed.
Do not overtake in stupid places. A typical example might be the approach to a junction, near a factory or school or anywhere where people might turn unexpectedly, approaching a hump backed bridge or anywhere that the road is obscured.
This is such a huge subject that I will leave it for now. There are so many things to add. In the meantime, buy this book.
